Changing R32 GTSt Type M rear pads - By AlexJ

My track outing to Hethel finished off my old set of rear pads. I had to cut the day short as the back end got more and more snakey under braking. On closer examination I realise why; one rear pad down to the metal, eek. Time for new ones sharpish.

This is an easy job, if you can change a wheel you can do this, infact once you've got the wheel off its fairly obvious what to do. Still brakes are somewhat important so be carefully out there :-).

R32 Type M rear's have 2 pot "Nissan" calipers (same as 300zx TT). Apec part no:753 £16.60 from XL Motors in New Malden 0208 949 9131 who deserve a plug for being open on a Sunday (Note some R32GTSt's use 200SX S13 style rear pads, check the PARTS page) Anyhow my pads look like this.........

Tools Needed...

Jack, chock, wheel brace, Philips screwdriver, long-nose pliers, pad spreader (not essential but this makes life easier), Copaslip, brake cleaner, wirewool/wetndry paper.

1. Chock the front wheels, put the handbrake on, loosen wheels nuts 1/4 turn then jack the corner of the car, remove wheel, and put and axle stand under the sill or place the removed wheel under the sill.

2. Gently pull out retaining wire/clip from the ends of the retaining pins. Don't turn the philips heads of the retaining pins as you'll mess up the clips and you can only buy them as part of a shim kit from Nissan for £50!

3. Remove retaining pins (beware as the large spring pops out with some force when you remove the first spring)

4. Remove the pads. You can lever the pads out with a screwdriver using the holes in the tops of the pads pressing against the caliper body then wiggle pads out with pliers (you shouldn't lever against the discs).

5. Remove lid of the brake fluid resevior and check it isn't going to overflow as you push the brake pistons back in (it will only do this if you've topped up the reservoir with worn pads).

6. Then use brake pad spreader to push pistons back into the caliper. You can do this with any suitable wedge but don't bend or scratch the disc and be careful to push the pistons back squarely. I do this quite slowly so as not to damage any seals in the brake/abs system. Lightly Copaslip the piston faces or piston facing part of shims (don't get any Copaslip on the discs!).

7. Fit the old shims to new pads, and slide pads in, don't damage the friction material and ensure you don't get any Copaslip/grease on the pad or disc. Fit the pad with the wear indicator (little metal tab) on inner (axle) side of the caliper as you can do visual inspection on the outside one but you cant on the inner one without removing the wheel.

8. Refit the first of the retaining pins and then holding the large spring clip in place fit the second. My pins were pretty manky so a cleaned then up a bit with some wet and dry paper and gave them a light copaslip. Use the philips screwdriver to twist the pins line up the holes in the ends so that you can refit retaining wire/spring.

9. Check there's no Copaslip etc on discs (if there is remove it with brake cleaner and a clean cloth). Refit the wheel, lower car, check the wheelnuts are tight, replace brake fluid reservoir cover and pump the foot brake until its hard. Now all you need to do is avoid hard braking for a hundred miles or so hmmmm I might make it to the end of the road :-).

Like I said easy peasy but at least you've got some piccies and you know what to expect. Alex